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“I’m Only Staying One Night,” Said the Nameless Gunman… But the Town Wouldn’t Let Him Leave

I read every single one. Now, back to Coldwater. He came down at 7:00. The body had been removed. The floor had been cleaned. Not perfectly, but enough. The saloon was empty except for the woman behind the bar, who was making coffee with the focused economy of someone who has been awake since before the body was removed and has been thinking hard ever since.

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She put a cup on the bar without being asked. He sat down and drank it. You should leave. >>  >> Roads are closed. There’s a route through the eastern pass. Takes longer, but it’s passable if the snow holds off for another few hours. He looked at her. You checked this morning. >>  >> I checked this morning.

You’re telling me there’s a way out. I’m telling you there’s a way out. A pause. And you’re still telling me She looked at him steadily. Dutch’s men are 2 days out. >>  >> Maybe less if the snow thaws on the lower passes. When they get here and find Dutch dead, they’re going to burn this town down. Every building.

Every person in it. That’s not my problem. No, it isn’t. She refilled his coffee. My name is Nora. I’ve been running this place for 4 years. Before that, I was in Laramie. Before that, I was somewhere I don’t talk about. Dutch arrived 18 months ago with three men. Three  became six. Six became 11. He never formally took over the town.

He just accumulated. The way water accumulates in a low place until one day you realize you’re standing in it up to your knees and you don’t remember it getting there. Where’s the sheriff? Something crossed her face. There isn’t one anymore. The eastern pass. How long does it stay open? If the weather holds, maybe until noon.

He looked at the window. Outside, the snow had stopped. The sky was the pale gray of a Wyoming winter morning that hasn’t decided yet what it intends to do with the day. I’ll be gone by noon. He finished his coffee, stood, went upstairs to get his things. Nora watched him go. Then she went to the window and looked at the eastern pass road.

And she did the thing she had told herself she wasn’t going to do. She waited. At 11:55, he came downstairs with his saddlebag over his shoulder. Three men from the town were at tables, not drinking, just present with the quality of people who have arrived somewhere and aren’t sure whether to announce their purpose.

He put his saddlebag down on the bar. How many people in Coldwater? 63 before the winter. Maybe 50 now. >>  >> Some left when Dutch arrived. More left after. And the ones who stayed? Stayed because they had nowhere to go. Or because they had something here they couldn’t leave behind. One of the men stood up. Older.

The hands of a carpenter. The expression of someone who had rehearsed what he was about to say. We know you’re leaving. We’re not going to stop you. We just wanted you to know what you’d be leaving behind. Dutch’s men are called the Malone riders. 11 of them. Three years operating in this territory.  They move between towns, stay long enough to take what they want, move on before the law catches up.

Coldwater was supposed to be temporary. Then Dutch decided he liked it here. Decided he liked it? Or decided he liked something here? The man looked at Nora. Nora looked at the bar. Dutch has a woman. She’s been here since he arrived. She’s not here by choice. Everyone in town knows it. Nobody said anything because because Dutch was the largest and most dangerous thing in the room.

Yes. He picked up his saddlebag, looked at the window. The sky outside had changed. The pale gray of the undecided Wyoming morning had made its decision. It was snowing again. The eastern pass road was gone. He set his saddlebag back down on the bar. Where is she? Her name was not Nora.  He understood this when she came around from behind the bar and sat across from him at the corner table, Dutch’s table,  the one with sight lines to everything, and looked at him with the dark red hair and the practical  expression and

the eyes that had been calculating something since the moment he walked through the door the night before. Her name was Nora Voss. She had been Dutch Malone’s woman for 2 years. She had been running the Broken Spur for four. I need you to understand something before you decide anything. He waited. Dutch doesn’t know I’ve been talking to people.

He doesn’t know I helped three families leave last spring before the passes closed. He doesn’t know I’ve been keeping records of what he takes, from who, with dates and amounts in a ledger behind the bar. She looked at her hands on the table. He doesn’t know a lot of things. But he thought he knew you. He thought he knew me.

There was a difference in how she said it that was worth noting. Dutch was not a cruel man in the way that some men are cruel for pleasure, for demonstration. He was cruel the way winter is cruel, not because he wanted to hurt you, because he simply didn’t account for you in his calculations. Nora had understood this about him in the first month.

It had taken her considerably longer to decide what to do with the understanding. The ledger. What’s in it? 18 months of documentation. Names, dates, amounts, three assault charges I witnessed personally. One killing, a rancher named Cole Briggs who objected to Dutch’s arrangement with the local cattle buyers.

She looked up. Enough to hang him. If it reached the right person in Laramie. It hasn’t reached anyone. The roads close in October. They open in April. Dutch knew this. He planned around it. You’ve been waiting for someone to come through. Someone who could get the ledger out. I’ve been waiting for 6 months. And then you walked in last night and killed Dutch in 4 seconds and went upstairs to sleep.

A pause. I thought that was worth a conversation. Outside, the snow continued its patient work on the Eastern Pass Road. And here’s something about that winter that I think people don’t fully understand when they hear about it. It wasn’t a surprise. The old-timers saw it coming. They said so. The problem was nobody with money wanted to listen to someone telling them their investment was about to freeze to death in a field.

That’s not a Wyoming problem. That’s a people problem. Always has been. The summer of 1886 had been dry. Abnormally, dangerously dry. The kind of dry that left the grass thin and the water low and the cattle going into winter in worse condition than any experienced rancher wanted to see. The old-timers, the ones who’d been on the northern range long enough to remember the hard winters of the 1870s, were saying things that the newer operators did not want to hear.

The newer operators did not listen. What came in November of 1886 was not a winter. It was a catastrophe in installments. Blizzard after blizzard, each one arriving before the last had fully settled. The temperatures dropping to levels that killed cattle where they stood, that froze rivers solid in hours, that buried the range grass under layers of ice that the surviving animals couldn’t break through to feed.

The losses across Wyoming, Montana, and the Dakotas would reach 60 to 90% of the total cattle population on the northern range by spring.  Ranches capitalized at hundreds of thousands of dollars, Eastern money, British money, wiped out in a single season. What followed, the collapse of the open range cattle economy, the end of the great cattle drives, was set in motion by those months of cold.

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