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John Wayne Walked Into A Boot Maker’s Shop In Arizona 1961 — What Was On That Shelf Stopped Him Cold

He pulled the truck to the end of the alley and got out. Roy Estes was 67 years old, which Wayne didn’t know yet but would have placed within two or three years from the way the man moved. Not broken down, not slow, but carrying a weight that had nothing to do with his joints. He had the hands of a man who had worked leather every day for 50 years, darkened at the creases, precise at the fingertips, still strong in a way that had become automatic and therefore invisible to their owner.

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He was turning a key in the door lock when he heard the truck. He turned around. Standing in the alley behind him was a very large tan man in a faded work shirt and canvas trousers and a battered Stetson holding a piece of paper and looking at the sign. “You Roy Estes?” the man said. “That’s right. John Ford sent me.

” Roy looked at him without recognition. “John Ford, film director. We worked together. I know who John Ford is.” Roy considered the the being held out to him. He didn’t take it. “He sent you 4 years ago, looks like.” He nodded at the date on the corner. The large man glanced at the paper.

“Took me a while to get to Tucson.” Roy unlocked the door. He didn’t invite the man in yet, but he didn’t tell him to leave either, which in Roy’s economy of gesture was the same as a welcome. “Come in then,” he said, “though I’ll tell you now, I was about to close.” He wasn’t. He was about to close permanently.

But he said it the way he’d said everything in the past 3 weeks, carefully, keeping the larger fact inside it, not letting it out where it could do anything. Notice what happens in the next 10 minutes. This is where the story could have turned into something ordinary, a man looking at boots, a craftsman showing his work, a transaction. It didn’t.

It became something else entirely, and the reason is a pair of boots that Roy Estes had made 9 years earlier and never sold. The shop was small and smelled of leather and beeswax and the particular dry warmth of an Arizona afternoon. Boots lined three walls, finished pairs on wooden stands, works in progress on the bench, hides rolled and stacked in the corner.

Wayne stopped in the doorway and looked at it the way a man looks at a room when he’s trying to take in its full dimension before he commits to entering.  He stepped inside. He went to the nearest finished pair, dark brown, round toe, a simple stitch pattern on the shaft, and picked it up. He ran his thumb along the welt, pressed the sole, checked the stitching at the heel.

“How long on a pair like this?” he said. “Three weeks, four if the hide needs work.” “What’s the hide?” “Cow hide, vegetable tanned. I don’t use chrome tanning, it weakens the grain over time.” Roy said it without special emphasis, the way a man states facts about his own work when someone asks the right question. Wayne set the boot down and picked up another, a different style, narrower toe, a more elaborate stitch.

He turned it over. “What do you get for them?” “95 for the plain ones, 120 for the worked ones. Wayne nodded slowly. He already knew what was coming before he asked it. And the factory boot? Roy’s jaw moved once, barely. $18 at the hardware store, three doors up. He paused. They sell quite a few. Before we go any further, hold this image.

A man who has spent 50 years learning to do one thing exactly right, watching the world pay $18 for a version of that thing that will last three years, and still here, still making them, still doing it the only way he knows how to do it, which is the right way, because the other way is not something he can bring himself to practice, even now.

Wayne set the boot down. He was about to say something when he saw the pair on the shelf in the back corner. They were different from everything else in the shop. Not in style, the same round toe, the same careful stitching, different in something harder to name. They sat in a box, tissue paper folded back, unwrapped.  They had never been worn.

You could see it in the leather, that particular unbroken quality of something made with great care and then kept, rather than used. He crossed to the back of the shop. Roy watched him go. “Those aren’t for sale.” Roy said. Flat, immediate, no explanation. Stop for a second and feel the weight of that sentence.

A man who is about to lose his  shop, who has been told by the bank that this week is the end, and he has one pair of boots on his shelf that he will not sell. The reason for that is the whole center of this story, and Roy Estes was not going to tell  it to a stranger who had walked in off the alley with a piece of paper from four years ago. “Fair enough.” Wayne said.

He didn’t push. He moved back to the front of the shop and picked up another pair. It was that, the two words,  and the stepping back, that changed something in Roy’s posture. A man who has been on guard for a long time, waiting for the push that doesn’t come, has to reconfigure himself when it doesn’t.

Roy sat down on the edge of the work stool and looked at his hands for a moment. “My boy made the order,” he said. Wayne looked up. “Before he shipped out, Korea,” he said. Roy’s voice was level, careful. He said, “You make me a pair for when I get back. Something to wear when I’m done with all this.” The shop was quiet. The Arizona afternoon sat outside the door, indifferent and  bright.

“He didn’t come back,” Roy said. He said it the way a man says a fact that has been inside him so long it has worn smooth, like river stone. It no longer cut. It just sat there, permanent, part of the landscape. I finished the boots after. Took longer than usual.” He paused. “I’d work for a while and then I’d stop without knowing why.

” Wayne looked at the pair in the corner. He thought about that, the working and the stopping. He understood the working and the stopping. “His name was Ray,” Roy said. “Raymond Lee Estes, 23 years old.” Listen, because what John Wayne said next was the only thing a man could say that wouldn’t make things worse, which was nothing. He was quiet for a moment.

Not the quiet of a man searching for words, the quiet of a man who has enough respect for a grief to let it be what it is. Then he said, “Your father built this shop.” Roy looked at him, recalibrating. “1921. Horse barn before  that. He and his brother converted it. And you started here, 14 years old. Summer of ’28.

” Wayne did the arithmetic quietly. “53 years, give or  take.” Roy picked up a hide from the bench and set it down again, the automatic gesture of a man whose hands need occupation when his mind is somewhere else. “Though it won’t be 54.” It was the first time he’d said it out loud. He hadn’t planned to say it.

It came out the way things come out when you’ve been holding them too long. Wayne didn’t react quickly. He turned the boot in his hands. “Bank?” he said. “Week’s end. How much?” Roy looked at him with the particular weariness of a man who has been offered sympathy that cost the giver nothing. “I’m not looking for I’m not offering anything.” Wayne said.

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